Trip Report: Echo Peak (11,211')

Written by ProLite Gear Staff

Sometimes I’m not in the mood for a technical climbing trip but I still want a good old fashioned adventure. Maybe I’m tired from a previous week of climbing, or I just had a bit of a close call recently and need to get recentered and bolster my confidence. My girlfriend suggested a long day hike she noticed in Backpacker Magazine that would bring us far into the backcountry and challenge us, body and mind. I don’t normally follow suggested routes from publications because they tend to be extremely popular – this time was different.

The Taylor-Hilgard Unit of the Lee Metcalf Wilderness in the Madison Range of Montana sees some traffic but rarely a crowd. It’s home to Hilgard Peak, the highest in Montana outside of the Beartooth Range, as well as several other 11,000 foot giants. Since the shortest trail into the basin is 9 miles (then another 2 to the peak), it isn’t the most accessible area. At the start of hunting season and with less-than-perfect weather (we drove through rain and lightning the whole way there), we knew we would meet some other folks along the first part of the trail. We stayed conscious of elk calls and boot prints the whole trip, but to our surprise we never saw another human. The full parking lot was deceiving. We even heard some fellow humans near mile eight, but never saw them. It was incredible – isolated beauty at its finest!

The recent rain turned much of the first five miles into a quick-mud substance that had a real knack for killing motivation. As we gained elevation the ground solidified and began to offer views of rocky peaks. Snow had been forecasted the previous evening and we began to see signs that predictions were correct. At around 8000 feet we were excited to have our first snowball fight of the season. At around 9000 feet it became clear that snow would be a major part of our day. We hiked through inch deep snow until we reached the junction with the Expedition Pass trail, where we dropped down into the basin by Expedition Lake and Crag Lake. I highly recommend taking a break at the crest of the trail here and familiarizing yourself with the upper basin. This vantage point really allows you to see where you need to go, since much of it disappears from view when you get closer. Keep an eye on Thunderbolt Lake and stay just to the right until you either gain the ridge or get up into the cirque.

This is where things get a little tricky. The end of the hike is off trail, but because there was so much so snow (yes, 4 inches at this point) it wouldn’t have mattered even if there was a trail. The route outlined by Backpacker Magazine looks like it switchbacks up the ridge due west of Thunderbolt Lake. Instead, we chose to curve south and enter the bowl just below Echo Peak. After scrambling over alternating snowfields and moraines we switchbacked up a steep snowfield to gain the north ridge. The wind was wild and whipped us with grainy snow, both from the mountainside and as if fell from the sky. From here we climbed up and the scrambling required all hands and feet for security. An ice ax would have brought peace of mind, just in case my lightweight trail shoes slipped on the rime coated rocks, but a trekking pole would have done the job as well. We had neither.

Gaiters! If only I had known how deep the snow would have been I would have certainly brought along my gaiters. By the time we stood on the summit, there were little blocks of ice between my socks and shoes – ensuring that my feet stayed frozen until I removed my shoes. Visibility was somewhat limited at the top due to the wind whipping snow in our faces, but the Sphinx, Spanish Peaks, and Yellowstone National Park were all clear. You can see from our summit photo how the summit powder was shin deep – so we decided to get the heck off of there. We descended, cold and tired, down to the ridge. We took a different snow slope down to the cirque, which ended up being wind loaded and somewhat punchy. If conditions continue like this, avalanche gear will be needed very soon. We reached Expedition Lake around 5pm where we rung out our socks and put on whatever extra clothing was left in our packs. The hike back would require less energy and the sun was dropping. Knowing that we had another 8 miles from the lake, we pressed on with speed and increased chatter. The setting sun made us less visible to tired hunters and I did NOT want an arrow in my side. The area is also full of grizzlies fattening up for winter and I didn’t want to meet any of them. The trail has plenty of time to dry out and the mud was only frustrating as we neared the trailhead at lower elevations. We put on our headlamps with six miles to go and clapped, shouted, or sang every few minutes to let nature know we were coming. Just after mounting our lights we heard an elk call from above the meadow. It was either a hunter’s dream or a hunter himself, but either way we decided to keep hiking as fast as possible.

Hiking this trail was a lot less exciting the second time around and now I understand why most people divide the trek between two days. The Wilderness Boundary sign was a beautiful sight since I knew the footbridge and trailhead were just a short bit away. By the time we reached the car, I just wanted to sleep. A two hour drive back to Bozeman wouldn’t permit that, but the gas station by Big Sky has some canned energy that helped us get home safely. This was a hike that was certainly challenging, but the views were incredible and the experience was like no other. If I go back and do this again, I’ll definitely be bringing trekking poles and a spare pair of socks. Remember to bring your bear spray!